In the blink of an eye, the first instalment of Fashion Week season has come and gone before we’d even realised it had begun. We’ve been waiting six months for the fash-pack gossip to descend onto our newsfeeds and New York Fashion Week did not disappoint. It seems like we haven’t even gotten to experience Spring yet and we’re anticipating the Autumn/Winter trends…aren’t we lucky that it’s still cold outside so we can get a head start on the next season’s trends?
The clear theme this NYFW was androgyny…and lots of it. Not only did designers such as Alexander Wang and Jason Wu keep it masculine for Autumn/Winter 2014-15 but also there was some very unexpected androgyny from feminine-orientated designers like Victoria Beckham and celebrity-favourite Monique Lhuillier. Their use of darker colours, sharper lines and straighter cuts gave the audience the change they had been looking for and there wasn’t one structured midi dress on the VB catwalk. Imagine that!
As always with the A/W collections, the hues get a lot darker. But this year, the majority of the designers played safe with various shades of black, grey and navy. Vera Wang in particular stuck with an all-black collection that varied in patterns to make it stand out from the pack. There was a distinct lack of girly fabrics and colours, instead opting for heavier fabrics such as velvet, wool, PVC and leather – a possible reflection of the terrible weather that plagued New York City in the interim and the clothing the ‘frow’ were sporting.
One of my favourite shows of New York Fashion Week was definitely Alice + Olivia. Amazing is the only word. I do love a collection that screams gothic fairy tale and this, like vintage Christian Dior (under Galliano, of course) fits the bill. The use of different colours and textures made the collection really stand out and the forbidden forest theme really worked with the designs.
Another designer that hit the headlines this NYFW was Marc Jacobs. The world’s eyes were on his debut collection after leaving Louis Vuitton and he didn’t disappoint. Kendall Jenner – little sister of the infamous Kim Kardashian – stole the show on the catwalk with her sheer top and showed that one of the Kardashian/Jenner family could make it into the fashion world without reality show success. Jacobs’ whole collection had an ethereal sixties vibe to it and he stayed away from the darker colours, favouring instead muted blues, camel, beige and creams. Some of the later pieces had a slight Daenerys from ‘Game of Thrones’ style to them – conjuring thoughts of wearing these floaty creations on a hot beach somewhere far away.
The Spring/Summer collections this year didn’t hold back in their colour palette and the subsequent season will do just the opposite: the darker, the better. Any colour or floral print should be taken with a pinch of salt and most pieces had that androgynous twist. There was a modern functionality about most of the collections shown at New York Fashion Week – a theme I imagine will run through each subsequent week. Already looking forward to seeing the London Fashion Week style – who’s with me?
This article was first seen on lovetabii.com.
Photos c/o vogue.co.uk, astairwaytofashion.com
Until next time,