It’s that time of year again when the fashionistas of the world come out to play and New York’s Lincoln Center is swarming with every style from the safe to the downright ridiculous. It doesn’t feel like six months have passed since we were gawping over the A/W collections and before the autumnal foliage has even hit the ground, we’re feasting our eyes on all that S/S’15 has to offer. One flash and New York Fashion Week is gone again – leaving a trail of glitter and pretty Instagram pictures in its wake. So what can we look forward to next spring?
Marc Jacobs is always on my list to watch and once again, here he features. His runways border on the theatrical and you can be guaranteed that the charismatic designer will always put on a show. His ‘army’ of models were swathed in camouflage of every colour – khaki to grey to beige. The models were completely make-up free – a breath of fresh air compared to the wild looks of some of the other shows. Each model strutted down the catwalk in relatively easy-to-wear pieces – most of them belted and all of them structured. From glitter to wrapover fabrics to copious amounts of buttons; Marc Jacobs had it all including the IT girl of the season, Kendall Jenner.
If you were on Instagram at any point during NYFW, you couldn’t have escaped with seeing a picture of Kate Spade’s new collection. It was just a whole pile of cute. The stripes, the florals, the colours – everything worked and I’ve a full list of pieces I want in my wardrobe, based on this show. The forest green and rich blue colours made this collection so vibrant and playful that women of all ages can feel comfortable and sexy in these clothes – a rarity in the fashion industry.
Anna Sui created a collection that is both high fashion and extremely easy to wear. With wild unusual patterns and bright colours, Anna Sui’s Asian influences are very visible throughout the 48-piece collection. From polka dots to big flowers, there are a wealth of different pieces you can easily incorporate into your wardrobe and even a couple of enviable two-pieces. Whatever your colour palette, you can get yourself a little piece of Anna Sui next season with blacks, neon pinks, reds and pastel blues.
Elizabeth & James focused on two key areas: monochrome and detailing. A lot of whites were featured in the collection, a sure theme running through the S/S’15 season. Easy-to-wear pieces and fabrics were consistent throughout and there were many pieces incorporating netting and pleating. Elizabeth & James are to be applauded for their uses of designs and fabrics to make everything a wardrobe staple. Although I could see myself wearing a number of the creations, a royal blue suit has caught my attention and proved that the detailing has gone to the core of the pieces – tailoring and all.
Oscar de la Renta is another design stalwart that focused a lot on monochrome but many of their other pieces had a cheeky playful side to them. Check print, laser cutting, leather and pastels all had their place on the catwalk, showing is that everyone can have their place in an Oscar de la Renta creation. The floral patterns on any other pieces would be frumpy and old-fashion but the design house managed to modernise and put a youthful exuberance into their work. It wouldn’t be an Oscar de la Renta show without some show-stopping gowns and it is clear to see what the fashion elite will be wearing to award season in February – splashes of pastel pink, lime green and peach.
Royalty favourite Jenny Packham astounded us once again with a collection fit for the red carpet. From 20’s style flapper dresses to gowns Zac Posen would be proud of, Jenny Packham created a collection full of colour, vibrancy and classic elegance without compromising the modernity. It’s easy to see the Duchess of Cambridge gliding down the red carpet in a number of these gowns and the Hollywood siren hairstyles suited the pieces perfectly. Splashes of silver, yellow, blue, pink and burgundy made for a very attractive collection indeed.
Alice + Olivia was on my one-to-watch list last season and hasn’t moved since. The fashion house is always known for its beautiful designs and theatrical shows and this was no different. In a collection that was very different from last season, that fairytale collection was switched up with something more modern and vibrant. This collection is packed with splashes of orange, blue, lavender, floral and monochrome for an albeit mixed up but still beautiful collection. Alice & Olivia always delivers something memorable and desirable and in this, they have not compromised. Looking at this collection, Spring will not be falling back on the usual pastel and floral prints as much as usual – rather going for much more vibrant colours.
Monique Lhuillier is a real favourite of mine and definitely a celebrity red carpet favourite too. The designer mixed loads of fabrics, designs and occasions to come up with a collection with a little something for everyone. From the peach knee-length skirts to the showstopping tulle pieces in varying shades of purple, blue and mint, this enviable collection combines all our dreams of a perfect dress. The sheer shirts with the embellished collar are something you need in your wardrobe now and I’m imagining a thousand little girls picking out their wedding dress from this collection already.
Now, it is a rare thing to say that your childhood heros can still be your heros in your twenties but for completely different reasons but my ones – Victoria Beckham and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen – have always remained for evolving reasons. Both of these showed their wares at NYFW and neither failed to disappoint me. Victoria Beckham stuck to the midi hemlines that she was used to but brought the line in a new direction, exploring different styles, colours and fabrics. Her collections have become a little more relaxed over time but not in a shoddy way – just making them more wearable. The Row – run by the Olsen twins – was another crowd pleaser and their focus on wearable clothes was backed up with tons of silk, organza and linen. It was more of an art exhibition than a runway but the palette of neutral colours and rich fabrics made us want to wear outfits like this more often.
This NYFW has brought hope that SS’15 will be both individual and strong in terms of influence. It was an amazing opening week and the designers involved really gave it their all, giving the crowd what they wanted to see. Never have I coveted so many pieces from one fashion week before and I curse the design houses for filling my head and emptying my purse simultaneously. Off to London Fashion Week we go for a dollop of that edgy Brit style that is visible nowhere else in the world. Who are you most looking forward to?
This article was first published on lovetabii.com.
Photos c/o vogue.co.uk, fabfashionfix.com, theimpression.com