London Fashion Week has passed and brought with it the wave of fashion tourists that flooded the English city. LFW combines two of my favourite things – style and London city – and I couldn’t have be more delighted that there were so many fantastic designers showcasing during the five-day fashion extravaganza. London offers something that no other city has – that sense of edge and individuality. Whether you’re on the London Underground, strolling down Carnaby Street or just nipping out to the shops, you will see so many people displaying their own unique sense of style with pride. That’s what London is all about. Between the street style and the catwalk shows, us avid observers were privy to something special this LFW.
Thomas Tait was one of the darlings of the season and rightly so. This talented man was the youngest ever graduate of the Central St Martins MA course at 24 and won its inaugural Young Fashion Designer Prize in May this year where he won €300,000. This money was evidently put back into his work and the collection was magnificent. Held in a garage setting, there couldn’t more more juxtaposition between the dank dusty venue and the clean bright clothing. Showing lots of primary colours, patterns and silks, his show was outrageous but still wearable – a step in the right direction.
Tom Ford went off the grid this season with his designs, creating a collection that is far darker and edgier than we’re used to for Spring. His runway featured mostly black with splashes of metallic and he relied on heavy materials, sequins and satin to complete the grunge look. As dark as Yves Saint Laurent or Alexander McQueen have been, Ford’s collection, although knockout, looked out of place. There were legs and breasts everywhere – reiterating Ford’s penchant for pushing the boundaries. At the end of the collection were several showstopping pieces that we can guarantee will grace the red carpet next spring – Cara Delevingne’s wardrobe is sorted for next season.
One of our own talents, Simone Rocha, also impressed the fashion elite this season. Although her catwalk showed a lot of black, white and nude, we saw some bright reds and pinks spring up – another nod to the emerging SS’15 trends. There were very different cuts on her pieces – some sporting fluff, others with an almost laser-cut edging to them. All Rocha’s pieces can be translated into something wearable, be it the tea-dress style for a wedding or the sheer detailing for a night out. Her show echoed Stella McCartney and Burberry collections from days gone by but with her own individual stamp on it.
Having evolved from her first seasons, Mary Katrantzou’s show was like never before. Casting aside the dresses that looked like Ming vases, her new style was visible through ornate detailing and wearable fabrics. Although her designs have become less ornate, they are possibly more beautiful and guaranteed to be an A-lister’s staple next season. Some of the pieces looked like architecture brought to life, featuring sharp angles, sheer fabrics and a range of different colours from lavender to khaki. There is something in this collection for everyone and will be a firm favourite with celebrities and fashionistas alike.
Burberry Prorsum was awash with colour and light. With live streaming for fans of Christopher Bailey’s design house, it was possible for all of us to take part in this stalwart catwalk show. Strangely the aforementioned Delevingne sat this show out but sat in the front row with new campaign co-star Kate Moss. The show took influence from artists like Henri Matisse and showcased another artist, James Bay, playing live music for the runway. If the monogram blankets were everywhere this season, you can guarantee the tulle belt will be everywhere next season. This piece was featured with coats, dresses and skirts in a variety of colours. The whole Christopher Bailey collection was extremely wearable and ranged from pink to indigo to forest green in its hues.
Another Irish export wowed London this season: JW Anderson. Since taking the reins at LVMH brand Loewe, his style for his eponymous label has evolved. Loewe is known for its luxury leather and we saw plenty of that in Anderson’s own show. His collection seemed more structured this season and he described it as ‘suspended architecture’. A mixture of colours and fabrics made this collection stand out and we saw a layering theme throughout. One of the standout pieces was the floppy hat which has found its way onto most most critic and blog lists as a piece to covet. Maybe even buy, if you’re brave enough. JW Anderson has shown a maturity this season that he has been building over the last few seasons. We’re not just seeing fashion here, we’re seeing art.
Once again, Topshop Unique created a collection that was young and trendy. Using poster girl and IT girl Cara Delevingne in their runway show, Topshop cemented their place as high fashion, despite being synonymous with the high-street. The collection had sporty vibes to it, not losing the AW14 sport-luxe trend. With this, there were floaty dress, silks and a whole collection encapsulated in red, white and blue. These easy-to-wear clothes will be everyone come Spring and the comfort didn’t compromise the style, making this one of their best catwalks yet.
Temperley London kept things young, floaty and fresh this season. From the venue to the footwear, everything had clean lines and an airiness about it. Pastels and checks were everywhere and again, style was not compromised by comfort. There was a modern Little House on the Prairie vibe but it was modern and sexy rather than dowdy. Although Temperley usually focuses on a lot of evening wear and gowns, this season the brand seemed far more relaxed and comfortable.
From what we could see, a lot of these brands had a change of direction, whether it was an evolution of style or re-analysing their target demographic. However, once again, this LFW impressed just as NYFW and it seems there is a new era of fashion brewing. I, for one, can’t wait for it.
First seen on lovetabii.com.
Images c/o vogue.co.uk, styledoctors.com, absorb.net.au, dailymail.co.uk,